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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 9:34 am 
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Well if there's enough interest, we could do a group buy and get them sent in a single package from the US to save on postage.

We've got three interested. I'm sure there'd be more.

We'd need to wait until they had 180'F units in stock as well.

FWIW, I've got a way of modding the factory housing for a proper bypass, but you can't use the simplified inlet/outlet flange that way.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 10:28 am 
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Just got a reply from Bertflood Imports. They were very helpful. Basically they only stock the coolant, because it's the recommended coolant for Rotax engines. Looks like if we want that remote housing, we will need to go through Evans in the US.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2006 8:19 am 
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ok cool.

mine wont require it for a little while yet (its not at that stage yet, although it shoulda been a long while ago), but its good to see that there are solutions out there.

cheers for all the help kypreo.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2008 6:52 pm 
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KYPREO wrote:
The old model used a capillery type sender (you fed it through the hose), which was a pain in the ass. The controller was inaccurate and didn't provide stable enough control. It run too cold or too hot and I frequently readjusted it and had to play with resistors to get it running hot enough, even with a thermostat.


Slides wrote:
I have a pump and old controller (and modified pump housing) purchased from adsy01 that will go in my s3 eventually, and i have helped put a similar setup (blanked off housing can't remember what we did with therostat) into RotorisE's FC.

Putting it all together, putting in the resistor and playing with the "dial" that wound to infinity (something with end stops would have been better) was a bit confusing. It works great now but the new one looks really good and a lot easier/tidier/profession to set up.
thanks



dug up from the depth, but Im hoping u guys can help me.

Being a tight arse, I purchased an old analogue controller, that I believe has never been used. Got it home and worked out that I didnt have the probe thing for it.
So I ring Davies Craig and they say they have a few spares left over and they would send it out.

Anyway, they send it, and Ive been testing the unit out the car with the probe sumersed in hot water, measuring voltage out-put with a multimeter,
It doesnt change!!!! :shoot: :shoot: turn the screwdriver, cold water, hot water, it sits at 12+ volts

So I ring Davies Craig and they say that the old unit was renowned for falling into"safe mode" for what ever reason and the was no way to fix it, they just used to replace them with new units.
I was stupid enough to buy one of these old units, and they where supplied to Davies Craig by a now non existant manufacturer. cheering.
Im now out of pocket and my car will still run too cold ....

Question is, what type of resitors where used??where they used for this exact issue? How did you guys wire them up?? I want to be able to adjust the output voltage !!

I had a 1st generation ewp seize on me during some skids,this cost me a motor many years ago, I then got the 2nd gen pump, died last year, Ive now got a 3rd gen one,fingers crossed.

Im sick of losing out with Davies Craig Products. They work great when they work , but fuck me :roll:

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 Post subject: Re: ewp electric controller
PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2008 1:56 pm 
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Sorry to hear about all that.

I used ordinary inline resistor - the blue coloured kind that cost 5c each from electronics stores like Dick Smith.

Get a couple of different values. My original problem with the analogue controller was that it wouldn't kick in at all - the sensor was reading too cold - different problem to you. Davies Craig suggested starting with 36K ohm - that ended up being about right for me with my old radiator. With my new one, I had to adjust the range again as it was running way too cold, but I can't remember the value. Over time, for whatever reason, i eventually didn't even need a resistor. I'm not sure resistors will help you if it's going in to "safe mode", but for $1, getting around 10 of them and experiment with the values won't cost you anything but time.

They are wired up parallel, not in series, ie strip some plastic off each of the sensor wires, run the resistor across the wires (you can just wrap the resistor ends while you're testing). Once you get the right value, solder the ends to the resistor to the wires.

That's the best I can do sorry - I hope it helps.

With the digital controller, I've had none of these problems and it's been running great (Gen 2 EWP is still going strong also). Mind you, I've done a bypass thermostat modification that ensures my temps stay between 85-90'C at all times. It also warms up very quickly. Details in my car thread (sig link)

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 Post subject: Re: ewp electric controller
PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 8:21 am 
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buy the digital setup,its great,has warning lights,failsafe mode etc,i personally like them.

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 Post subject: Re: ewp electric controller
PostPosted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 10:32 am 
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KYPREO wrote:
It's probably easier and cheaper to modify the mazda water pump housing and use thermostats that are available from mazda. It can be modified to work with a bypass with a little thought.

If anyone knows of any other universal thermostat bodies with a bypass, please post here!

There's an easy way of making up a remote mounted thermostat using the factory housing (modified a bit) bolted up to a flange. This one also has a bypass line which connects back into the heater return line like Kypreo suggests.

Factory thermostat housing with bypass opening
Image
Installed on return line (housing sits underneath the thermostat, not on top like with stock setup)
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Bypass line with barb t-piece to heater return hose
Image

Using this setup I can run the pump full time without a controller. I have an idea for a bit of extra pump speed control, but will see how this goes first.


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 Post subject: Re: ewp electric controller
PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:56 pm 
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just thought id add before people start reinventing the wheel check out some cars at wreckers for remote thermostat mounting systems..

1 i know for a fact is the bmw 2002 has one as i just worked on one recently.

im sure other cars have them as well

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 Post subject: Re: ewp electric controller
PostPosted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 3:38 pm 
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Epic thread revival.

My current setup, as explained in my build log, uses the factory water pump housing, with the factory thermostat, and in order to retain proper bypass operation and even coolant temperature, I have welded up the bypass channel and tapped a new fitting directly from the water pump housing to the heater return before the EWP.

In combination with the Davies Craig digital controller, this works fantastically. Quick warm-up times, very consistent temperature, no overcooling on cool nights/freeway, and the EWP only runs when it needs to.

Since I originally put together this setup (which Adsy also used successfully), the EWP range has expanded significantly with up to 150L/min models now available. You also get alloy housings instead of ABS. The controller has also improved. All up, it's a significantly improved product with even more cooling potential.

For my LPG turbo conversion, I will need to reconsider the layout of my EWP system (so that coolant consistently runs through the LPG converters and to ensure the turbo coolant path operates properly). I have long wanted to rejig the setup anyway to get rid of the heavy water pump housing and replace with a simple inlet/outlet flange. This setup is fine for a track/drag car, but IMO a street car really needs a thermostat with bypass to ensure proper operation.

The solution is a remote mounted inline thermostat housing. A few options were discussed in this thread. After further research and being prompted by a thread on rx7club, I have done some more research and came up with the following best options:

(1) Rover Pressure Relief Remote Thermostat.

Image

This is an ABS unit with self-contained thermostat (with a number of temperature ratings available). It has a bypass incorporated.

This was designed for K series engines fitted to Lotus Elise, Lotus Exige, Land Rover Discovery and Land Rover Freelander. The initial remote thermostat housing for those cars had a number of issues. Basically, the pressure and temperature differential between the water jacket and radiator meant that whenever the thermostat would open and close, the engine would experience thermal shock and suffer blown head gaskets.

Rover came up with this system to overcome that design flaw. It is designed in such a way that the bypass will open to equalise pressure.

The great thing about this design is that it can be fitted in the lower radiator hose, BEFORE the EWP. This has a few advantages I can, such as packaging and much easier to bleed when filling up the system cold. Basically you could run the EWP cold and air pockets and be flushed out even with the thermstat closed.

The below diagrams show how it would work in a lower radiator hose position.

Image

Image

Going off this diagram:

(3) goes to engine outlet
(8) goes to EWP inlet
(12) goes to radiator lower hose
(23) goes radiator upper hose

For an 82'C thermostat, the Rover part no. is PEL500110. This goes for around AU$80, but I'm sure it could be found much cheaper. I have my doubts about plastic, but it's a self-contained part with no flanges (reduced risk of leakage) and people seem to be running these in 4WDs for 100,000s of km.

(2) Fiat 124 thermostat.

Image

This is a cast aluminium unit and much nicer looking. Like the Rover, the housing isn't serviceable - it comes as a unit with the thermostat and seals fitted. Aftermarket replacements appear to be limited since it's an older rarer car, but it looks like Tridon makes the same style with a few temperature options. These are shown below:

Attachment:
Fiat style thermostat housing.JPG
Fiat style thermostat housing.JPG [ 38.19 KiB | Viewed 841 times ]


A quick online search shows the cost of the 82'C part is around $95.

Tridon part number is TT258-180P.

(3) 1976 BMW 2002 E10 thermostat.

Image

I came across this thanks to the tip-off from Simon above. Same idea as the Fiat but the angles will probably work better for the pipework needed in a rotary application.

According to my research, the BMW part number for the 80'C version is 1153146805680

Tridon also makes a 82'C version which is exactly the same factory spec as Mazda rotary engines.

Attachment:
z-TT260.jpg
z-TT260.jpg [ 21.39 KiB | Viewed 841 times ]


The part number if TT260-180P. I found it online for $80. Vernet branded ones from overseas are even cheaper. One place has it for US$16.

I think this is the pick of the lot. I can't believe after all the years the answer was so simple and from a 1970s car.

There are other options too including custom billet aftermarket jobs, and an alloy flanged remote thermostat housing from a Ford Cobra, but I picked the cheapest simplest 3 I could find.

No one else will probably use this information, but I thought I would share to hopefully save someone else hours of research. :wink:

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 Post subject: Re: ewp electric controller
PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 6:48 am 
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Not sure if right thread, but has anyone verified the temp calibration on the Craig Davies EWP and the stock water temp sensor?
The location of my EWP temp sensor is on the outlet neck (where the cap goes and where you install the thermostat)
So essentially ~4" from the stock temp sensor on the back of the water pump. You can see both sensors.
The thermostat is bypassed.

The EWP sees higher temps, about 20 degrees more or so.
I am using the stock water temp sensor and calibration on the adaptronic.

Earlier today testing, below were the temps
EWP water temp 200*F
Stock water temp 180*F
Oil Pedestal Temp ~160*F
Ambient Temp ~60*F

The problem is the EWP alarm goes off at about 200*F, before my fans even come on.


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 Post subject: Re: ewp electric controller
PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 1:18 pm 
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Ive got 3 total. The digital controller (with the EWP) and a Defi sensor in the stock location (rear housing for my dash) + one more for the haltech input at the exit locationn at the top of the front top of the block (same as the EWP)

All 3 read the same.
The Defi will sometimes ride high and fluctuate IF the coolant hasnt been fully purged of bubbles.

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 Post subject: Re: ewp electric controller
PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 2:08 pm 
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No problem for me either. When my engine was last running, I had the EWP sensor in the top of water pump housing, plumbed into the coolant channel where it exits the engine (immediately underneath the alternator). I had a mechanical water temp gauge with the bulb installed at the back of the water pump housing, underneath the thermostat. I then had a mechanical thermatic switch for the electric fan, with the sensing bulb in the top radiator hose.

Not sure what is going for you there.

To get this right, the EWP sensor is on the cold side of the thermostat, and you do have a thermostat? What do you mean by the thermostat is bypassed? To my mind, the best place to measure water temp is between the engine outlet and the thermostat, where the temperature is at its hottest (since the coolant has accumulated the most heat by that point) but where also get the same temperature irrespective of whether the thermostat is open or closed.

A water temp sensor in the oil filter pedestal will read lower (even though it's actually closer to the ignition area of the engine), but it's useful to have a reading there too, because it something bad starts happening or the EWP fails (so there is no coolant circulating) you will find out sooner rather than later.

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 Post subject: Re: ewp electric controller
PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 6:10 pm 
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I pretty much have the sake bomb kit. It comes with a plug of sorts that utilizes the lower portion of the thermostat for the bypass. It is a bolt, that you attach the bottom portion of the spring to. The bypass port is blocked during warm-up and the spring compresses when warmed up to allow bypass. IIRC.

This is the spot that I have my EWP water temp sensor in
https://cdn3.volusion.com/wpyhq.jsayd/v ... 1459350630

I have only been running the EWP for a few months and a few hundred miles, but the high temp has always been the case.
Not sure if this matters but I have also deleted the AST, verified the coolant reservoir is filling when hot and being sucked back into the system when cooled.


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