as above, but i would also get some washers incase you need to space the hinges out more, they act as shims, yo shouldnt be able to see them and they work a treat if you need that little bit extra adjustment,
if you work from the back forward like gypsy said, you end up wit a better outcome as the rear 1/4 panels are set, they cant move, if you start from the front with the guards of bonnet, by the time you get to the rear, you most likely have the start over as all the front panels are adjustable, if that makes any sense.
goodluck with it all
I am NOT a panel beater but have 2 uncles that are in their late 60's that are old school file finish and lead experts, throwing a panel away does not exist in their vocab.
How ever they have showed me some tricks but my explanation may not be that good as i have seen them do it in the flesh, like i said not being a panel beater there maybe someone that can explain my dribble.
# always line panels up in bogging stage from the rear forward (as stated by Gypsy)( only saying that as not many file finish)
not at paint stage as stated by others
#when panels are lined up, use a very sharp scriber and score around the hinges, edge of guards that leaves a clean indent in the steel, this will show up later, even if the jambs are painted( but dont go over the marks with course sand paper) the marks will help you get the panel nearly 100%
#One of the big factors and dont be shocked if required is to physically grab the door and lift it or push on it to make it aligne, also dont be scared to use a bar to push panels out by using them as a wedgeand closing the panel on to it. You can do this to the bonnet, remember that Mazda's where vertually hand built.
I hope this helps and if there is a perfectionest can you please explain